most affordable enduro MTB yet - alum angle sizes

These bits come with carbide tips to allow you to bore holes into tiles without creating chips or cracks in the tile. Different tile bits are designed for different types of tiles. Therefore, ensure that you check its package to confirm that it can drill into your tiles.

Spade bits have a spade-shaped tip that allows them to bore into softwoods. They are typically used to create holes for running cables.

Named after their tip that resembles a series of pyramid-shaped steps, these bits are what professionals use to drill into sheet metal. Their stepped design allows you to create holes with varying diameters. Step bits are renowned for their versatility.

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It’s a tradeoff with the momentary/paddle switches I think. I’ve had projects that involved hours of grinding, and I hate the unlatch-able paddle switches. Your hand will wear out squeezing the handle for that long, and how much safer are things when you’re holding onto an angle grinder with very tired arms and hands?

The best drill bits for metal drilling in ascending order in terms of cost are High-Speed Steel (HSS) bits, Black Oxide bits, Cobalt steel bits, and Titanium bits. For drilling large holes in thin or soft metals, you can use a hole saw which can also be used with a cordless drill.

The piece of racking is cut down the center to form the base of the vise, but most everything else is formed from individual shapes cut out of the plate and welded together. Considering the piecemeal construction methods, the final result looks very professional. The trick is to grind all the surfaces, including the welds, down until everything looks consistent. Then follow that with a coat of primer and then your finish color.

i wouldn’t use a grinder without leather gloves. it is better to chew up the glove than to chew up your finger. gloves have saved my fingers lots of times when using grinders and i have two that i use every day. just a touch of a grinder wheel will give you a nasty scrape. chew up the glove instead of your fingers no matter what the others say

This creates a much more efficient drilling process with burr-free holes in tubing, sheet metal, and iron bar stock. Annular cutter bits on our site are made from Cobalt High-Speed Steel.

It should have a wheel on so that you can wind the centre of the piston up and minimise the exposed area of piston then add a shield to protect it.

Secondly, the wheel direction is such that if it catches on the part (very unlikely here) the grinder will be pulled away from his body.

You use a hammer bit to create precise holes into concrete slabs when looking to determine the amount of humidity in a concrete slab.

Hand protection is very low on my list when using an angle-grinder. Maybe just to prevent burns when I pick up small cut-off pieces from the floor. Top of the list is eye-protection. I already wear prescription glasses, but that is not sufficient at all.

At first, I had similar thoughts. But then I remembered, that I use gloves quite rarely myself. Only for welding. In addition to the possible danger of getting caught, they also reduce dexterity and agility. Of course I prefer to clamp a workpiece down, if possible. but that’s not always the case.

Black oxide is suitable for drilling iron and steel but is not recommended for drilling aluminum, magnesium, or similar materials.

Dull drill bits can increase time and effort needed to complete work and possibly damage the materials you’re working on, and may even cause injury.

Bronze Oxide: Bronze oxide increases the tempering and stress relieving of the bit and is generally used alone to visually identify cobalt steel or with black oxide to identify better grades of high-speed steel.

Being able to work with metal is a fantastic skill to have, and we’re always impressed to see what folks can produce with a welder and some scrapyard finds. Especially when they build tools and equipment that can be put to practical use.

Auger bits have a screw tip that creates the initial hole for the rest of the bit to fall. As a result, holes by auger bits are incredibly clean and precise.

I now wear safety glasses and a face shield on top. You will still get the occassional spark between the face shield and the glasses and I have at least once had one hit me behind the glasses.

These are special types of bits that can drill through plastic, tiles, glass, marble, and brick. They can also withstand high temperatures.

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These are the bits to use when looking to drill into thick and dry wood. Thanks to their innovative design, you do not have to apply a lot of pressure when drilling into tough materials.

Still, speaking from experience, it takes some grip strength and determination to do the grinder-in-one-hand-work-in-the-other thing. Even if the potential for serious injury is limited the potential for still-fairly-painful bruises and abrasions is quite real. Less so with a grinding disc than with a wire brush (grinding disk is not likely to hook around the workpiece and smack you with it the way a wire brush can).

As far as safety and safety nazi’s go, this is one where I side with the builder 100%, they are his hands. It is up to him as an adult to define his own personal safety protocols.

I’ve had an angle grinder bind up in a loose t shirt and pull me into it. It stalled but by got that t shirt was tight. Try getting to the on off switch in a hurry with that monster desperate to chop into your stomach.

Also known as high-speed bits, they resemble corkscrews and are some of the most popular bits. They are typically used to drill small holes into wood and walls. Their unique design allows them to channel dust from the hole as they work.

When it comes to drills, there are two easily identifiable parts you need to know about – the shank and the chuck. Here’s a little information to help you understand more about how drills and drill bits work:

A bench-grinder or table-saw is very different – no gloves. I tend to wear gloves for 2-handed hand-held tools – angle-grinder and sometimes a skillsaw, hedge trimmer, etc but definitely not for bench tools.

Most small hydraulic jacks have a small rubber fill plug on the side of the cylinder (for adding more hydraulic fluid). That plug needs to up on the top if using the jack horizontally.

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A good grinder will cut out automatically when I detects it’s caught something – I’m fairly sure mine engaged a few weeks back when it caught a dust sheet, it should have ripped through the old fabric easily, but it came to a very quick stop – not pyrotechnic-table-saw-brake fast, but fast enough to not be spinning when it hits you if it’s grabbed your T-shirt. Still Wouldn’t rely on it though.

Most drill bit sets are sold in a case with space to hold each bit in place. This keeps the drill bits from being nicked or scratched and also provides excellent organization.

It depends on where the suction point for the pump is. All jacks should work horizontally when the pump/handle is on the bottom side. How far you could rotate the pump/handle to the side (as done here) depends on how the jack is constructed.

Like auger bits, self-feed bits also feature a screw tip for positioning the bit. They create clean, precise holes, as well. However, since they do not channel the dust away from the hole as they work, you must halt the operation periodically to clear the dust away.

Used to drill larger thru-holes in metal (7/16″ and up), these bits require a special machine. Similar to a hole saw, annular cutter bits cut the outer diameter of the hole and leave a solid center slug.

you dont wear gloves while using a grinder. not ever(well I dont). that said one handed use isnt the best idea, but again I’ve done it plenty, if your grinding it isnt an issue, if your cutting (such that the disk could get snatched) then you are a fool if you use one hand.

Black Oxide: The most economical coating. Black oxide adds corrosion protection, increases tempering and stress relieving of the bit, reduces galling and chip welding, and aids in retaining drilling lubricants.

First, no gloves around the spinny things. I’d let you think about it, but knowing your species is one of little brain I’ll point out that when the glove touches the wheel, it’ll pull your whole hand in rather than just knocking a bit of skin off your finger.

If your set didn’t come with a case or you’ve been buying individual drill bits, add a storage box with dividers to your toolset. Don’t store more than two bits together and use a permanent marker to mark each space with the size and type of drill bit stored there.

Love that build. Wishing here I had a steady hand with an angle grinder. On some of those welds, I definitely would have cut some bevel before welding though – 5 tons of force is a lot for a fillet weld in plate

While the whole build is very impressive, our favorite part has to be the hand-cut cross hatching on the jaws. With the workpiece in one hand and angle grinder in the other, he cuts the pattern out with an accuracy that almost looks mechanical. If we didn’t know better, we might think [WorkshopFromScratch] was some kind of metalworking android from the future.

A great instructional video! Ive learned to ignore all the internet trolls\critics, who have actually built, or done what?

I think, after pondering the issue for several moments, that he indeed should have used gloves. At least while painting the parts. I mean think about it, what if he had gotten a phone call in the midst of all that painting. Who wants orange paint on a cell phone

Grinders are fast. When things go wrong, your reflexes kick in before you have time to think. Grinders kill people. Don’t be one of them. I highly recommend not learning the hard way.

Sized for their diameter, drill bits are constructed in a range of styles to help with specific tasks. Not sure which drill bit you need or what you need in your toolbox? Keep reading for a rundown of the different types of drill bits you’re likely to come across.

I have wanted something like this for years. My problem is I kept going back and forth between using a regular vice ans retrofitting a pancake cylinder in for the last quarter inch of closure or just doing with he did. I like the air springs for retraction. I thought it was a nice build.

It just amazes me how many whiners there are on the internet. I don’t think most of them have ever used a grinder before or built anything out of metal. I bet they wear kevlar underwear in case a meteor hits them. As to the vise, I like the design because the jack puts most of the closing force up high on the jaws where you need the force, unlike a lot of bench vises where the force, moment arm, is in the center or down low at the acme screw. I’ve seen too many broken bench vises. This design is closer to a machinists vise where the line of clamping force goes through the jaw, not the slide. I get large pieces of thick steel scrap at a steel yard that has a big plasma torch CNC table. I buy center cutouts and scraps I find in their scrap dumpster.

Safety standards are situational among intelligent humans. When I observe the grinding photo, I do not see a problem with safety and hand placement. The work piece is supported at an angle and the ‘grinder hand’ is supported against the bench top. A clever setup for making consistent cuts – safely.

Thin cutting disk may shatter at any time, and I can guaranty that the travel time from grinder to eye is less than the time it takes to close your eyes. Even thick grinding disks or sand-paper disks can shoot pieces of the disk in many directions, even when the guard is not removed. The worst are bits of metal as they are hot and will burn into your eyeball and get stuck there for days. You then need to find someone else to drive you to a doctor, who will grind away part of your eyeball until the metal stick out far enough to get hold of with tweezers. It will really ruin your day for a couple of days in a row.

Yea, i did the same cutting aluminum trim for my teardrop caravan project, ended cutting into my hand and coming close the tendon of my pointing finger….1/10 would not recommend

I have a giant scar across the the whole heel of my left hand from not holding the grinder with both hands, and not clamping the work down. 1″ to the left I would have cut my wrist and been dead on the floor before somebody found me. And I didn’t even save any time. I ruined the part through my laziness too.

Brad-point bits come in handy when you need to make clean and precise holes. They come with rubber stoppers to allow you to set a particular depth. Their precision makes them a popular bit among woodworkers.

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Drill bits make holes in a variety of different common materials. These include different types of wood, metal, plastic, ceramic tile, porcelain and concrete. Different types of drill bits made for steel, aluminum, copper, cast iron, sheet metal, fiberglass, brick, vinyl flooring and more are also available.

These are what you use when looking to bore smooth and clean holes into the woods. This bit also comes with a pointed tip to allow for easy positioning of the bit.

Drill bits are designed to drill holes in a variety of different common materials. These include different types of wood, metal, plastic, ceramic tile, porcelain, and concrete.

Question, do most jacks work OK sideways like that? I could have sworn that I tried one sideways and it did not work as I expected. One project from a few years back was to retrofit an antique cider press to use a hydraulic jack, but in such a way that it did not change the press and could be removed with no ill effect on the press. The hydraulic jack is nice in that you can put a lot of pressure on the mash but no torsion on the frame. Anyway, I seem to recall seeing if one of them would work on it’s side and it not working. You may have lucked out with your jack.

Of course if you drop it it’ll keep running till someone grabs the power cord at the plug. But that’s why I wear a leather apron and full face shield when running the big hand grinders.

Each spot is marked for the bit’s size and type, making it easy to quickly find the right bit for the project you are completing.

Plug cutters are helpful in professional projects, as they drill holes into the wood while cutting the wood plugs you require to hide recessed fasteners.

Titanium Nitride (Tin): A more expensive coating that increases the hardness of the bit and provides a thermal barrier resulting in increased production rates and longer tool life in harder materials.

The shank is the end of the drill bit that fits into the drill and is secured by the chuck. A round shank helps to center a bit in the chuck more accurately. The flat surfaces on a hex shank allow the chuck to grip the drill bit more securely.

A sharpening tool can be a good investment to keep your drill bits in top shape. More experienced DIYers can accomplish the task with a good set of grinding tools.

The tip of the bit has a tiny hole where you insert the wire you are looking to pass through the material. Installer bits are incredibly long, reaching lengths of up to 18 inches to facilitate their work.

The big problem is that the vice will not last long if you use it for welding and grinding. The piston will deteriorate very quickly.

Tin also provides the same benefits as black and bronze oxide. Tin-coated bits are suitable for drilling iron and steel as well as aluminum, magnesium, etc.

Quarter-inch hex shank bits are intended to be used on 1/4-inch impact drivers and can be quickly changed. SDS (slotted drive system) shanks are used for concrete drills and demolition bits and work specifically with SDS-Plus and SDS-Max rotary hammer drills.

These bits have a special design that allows them to drill a hole into a material with the purpose of extracting its core.

Good Lord, man. If people were afraid of getting hurt by building stuff, then they would never leave their homes NOR get stuff done. I think you need to rethink you post before you post next time.

What I would rely on is my ability to find the on-off switch instantaneously: the paddle is right under my finger. If you don’t hold it down, the grinder stops. Let go, it stops. If your grinder has a locking on switch, that produces a lot of additional safety issues.

As their name implies, these bits can be adjusted to create holes of varying sizes, thus eliminating the need for purchasing bits of different sizes.

No gloves were being used. It’s just a good example of the fairly complicated nature of the injuries that can arise from minor lapses with angle grinders, not to mention the months of subsequent extension splint use followed by tendon lengthening exercises to address the shortening of the surgically repaired tendon.

Should add – removing the guard or using an inappropriate guard seems to be the other bug cause of injury. I’ve put QR bolts on my guards so it’s super-quick to adjust them to the right position.

I was using an angle grinder yesterday to sharpen lawn mower blades, it was much faster than using the bench grinder! (I will probably be sharpening the blades more often now.)

Proper drill bit maintenance is not much different from maintenance for most tools, and it helps prolong the life of your drill bits and keeps them ready for the next job.

Caring for your drill bits can also be a matter of safety; dull or damaged drill bits can create problems both in the work and for the worker.

Drill bits are cutting tools. If you do a lot of home projects or heavy-duty construction work, periodically sharpening your drill bits will be necessary.

For most of us, a vise is the sort of thing you clamp onto the edge of a workbench and crank down by hand. It might even be made of plastic, depending on the kind of work you find yourself doing with it. But it’s safe to say that [WorkshopFromScratch] won’t be soldering any PCBs in the jaws of this nearly 100 lb hydraulic vise that he built from, well… scratch.

One tends to be a little less cavalier after having inspected the frayed end of an extensor tendon poking through an angle grinder induced macerated gash on the dorsum of a hand, with the end of the tendon bearing a remarkable similarity to a lightly caramelised, small floret of cauliflower.

The chuck is the part of the drill that attaches the drill bit. Most power drills for home use have a 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch chuck. Larger chucks come in 5/8-inch and 3/4-inch sizes but are usually fitted on heavy-duty and industrial power drills and drill presses.

Just to clarify, the blades were clamped individually into a vise on my workbench (not on the mower B^). I wore safety glasses, not gloves.

Drill bits made for steel, aluminum, copper, cast iron, sheet metal, fiberglass, brick, vinyl flooring, and more are also available.

As mentioned earlier, drilling through tile requires a specialist drill bit – regular or even masonry bits simply won’t do the job as they’re not strong enough to penetrate tiles’ hard surfaces. Instead, you should opt for either carbide-tipped or diamond-tipped drill bits.

…and here we have the common Safety Nanny, who has never used an angle grinder but armed with their trusty clipboard are confident in their ability to spot danger. Soon you will hear their mating call “Ohh, that looks dangerous, why you could hurt yourself!”

These are what you use when looking to create holes in bricks, stones, or concrete. Due to the tough nature of those materials, masonry bits wear out quickly, meaning that you will need to replace them frequently.

The biggest problem I have now is with fogging. Especially when wearing a mount/nose mask for the air bornes. Air flow is the next upgrade. – at which point you wonder if something akin to a gas mask / darth vader helmet is the best next step. Mouth, nose, ears, eyes, doubled up – all need protection and it needs to be quick to put on/off.

Yeah, the part could be held in a vise (or clamped) but y’know, he doesn’t have one yet. I’d do that for mere convenience,

As for gloves, there’s a lot of disagreement about grinders. Leather Gloves protect you from sparks and debris, and shouldn’t be too loose to get caught easily – plus your hands shouldn’t be anywhere near the disc, the should be on the body holding the paddle, and on the side grip.

In the video after the break, he takes an array of scrap metal including what appears to be a chunk of racking from the Home Depot and a rusted plate that looks like it could be peeled off the hull of a sunken ship, and turns it into a monsterous vise with five tons of clamping force. Outside of a handful of bolts, a couple of gas struts, and the hydraulic bottle jack that that provides the muscle, everything is hand-cut and welded together. No fancy machining here; if you’ve got an angle grinder, a welder, and of course the aforementioned stock of scrap metal, you’ve got the makings of your own mega vise.