Set your tails on the ends of the pin boards and transfer their layout with a marking knife. Next, use a square to mark the pins down to the depth lines on both sides of the pin boards.

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Clamp your tail boards in a vise and use a chisel to pare the tails to their layout lines. Be sure to look at the layout lines on both sides of the board so you keep the tails perfectly square.

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Pare the pins to their layout lines. Again, be careful to pay attention to both sides of the board to keep everything square.

Once you’ve chiseled down about 1/8 in., you can chop more aggressively. Leave the outer ends of the pin waste intact and proceed until you’re about halfway through the board’s thickness. The outer ends will give the pin waste support when you’re chopping from the other side, helping to prevent tear-out.

With the sliding T-bevel on the end of your board, set the dovetail angle—given in a “rise and run” format instead of degrees. Softwoods are traditionally 1:6 and hardwoods 1:8. Lay out the tails with a marking knife. Unlike a line marked by even a sharp pencil, a line marked by a knife is exact. You can choose your dovetail size, but there should be a half pin on both edges of the pin boards.

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Chop out the first side of the tail waste exactly as you did the pin waste, wiggling the chisel to get an accurate start.

Starting inside the depth line, just wiggle the chisel up to the line. Next, set the chisel on the layout line, press down lightly and then wiggle the chisel up to the depth line again. This method sets the dovetail depth accurately. If you chop in hard right on the line, the chisel will push its way past your depth mark.

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I’ve cut lots of dovetails over the years, both by hand and using dovetail jigs and a router. If I’m doing a run of drawers, I’ll use the jig and router 10 times out of 10. But for a small project, I’ll still cut them by hand. Why? First, in the time it takes to get the jig and router set up and dialed in, I could be well into the process of cutting them by hand. Second, hand-cutting dovetails is fun and rewarding. There are many “right ways” to cut them—I’ll just show you the method I learned. The most important thing is to work as accurately as you can, but don’t be concerned with perfection. Enjoy the truly handcrafted look!

Spread a little glue on the wedge and slip it into the gap. When the glue dries, cut off any extra material and sand the repaired area.

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Bull end mills are simply corner radius end mill cutters.  These radius end mills are single ended tools used for making corner radii at the bottom of a milled shoulder. Bull nose cutters have a stronger milling edge than square end mills, so feed rates may be increased and yield longer tool life and greater productivity.  These milling bits may also be used in mold profiling applications leaving smoooth finishes.  These mills are all solid carbide, and are available in many diameter sizes and lengths.

A dovetail joint is made by cutting interlocking parts on two pieces of wood. The tail board has the dovetails. The pin board has pins that slide in between the dovetails. Each outer edge of the pin board has a half pin, meaning only one face of the pin is angled. It’s a strong joinery method because the parts mechanically resist being pulled apart and have a lot of gluing surface.

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I’ve cut lots of dovetails over the years, both by hand and using dovetail jigs and a router. If I’m doing a run of drawers, I’ll use the jig and router 10 times out of 10. But for a small project, I’ll still cut them by hand. Why? First, in the time it takes to get the jig and router set up and dialed in, I could be well into the process of cutting them by hand. Second, hand-cutting dovetails is fun and rewarding. There are many “right ways” to cut them—I’ll just show you the method I learned. The most important thing is to work as accurately as you can, but don’t be concerned with perfection. Enjoy the truly handcrafted look!

Once you’re satisfied with the fit, apply glue to all the mating surfaces and press the joint together. With the glue applied, you may have to be a bit more forceful with your mallet.

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Flip the tail boards and chop out the rest of the tail waste. It’s trickier than pin waste; you’re chopping an angled cut.

Press the joint together to check the fit. Chances are you’ll need to adjust it. Mark the areas that need material removed and carefully pare off a bit at a time, checking the fit often so you don’t overdo it. A good fit requires only a light tapping with a mallet.

Dovetail joint

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Staying just outside your layout marks, saw down each line to just shy of the depth line. If you’d like, you can mark the waste areas to be cut out so you don’t cut on the wrong side of the lines. (No, of course I’ve never made that mistake.) Cut off the half-pin space waste on the outer edges now as well.

Rest assured, there likely will be some gaps that bug you. I almost always have a couple, especially if I’m a little out of practice. Don’t worry. You can fill them and make them disappear.

Using a square and a marking knife, transfer the tail marks across the ends of the tail boards. From there, bring the angled tail layout lines down the other face of the tail board.

After milling your parts to their final dimensions, use a marking gauge to lay out the depth of the dovetails on each piece. For “through” dovetails like these, that depth is equal to the board’s thickness.

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Cut small wedges from an extra board. Make several vertical cuts, then saw the wedges free by cutting in from the side. Make wedges with grain going vertically as well as across the grain so you can easily match the grain at the gaps.

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Flip the pin boards over and start the second side as you did the first, just wiggling up to the line. Then chop each pin space all the way through. Go lightly as you reach the end.

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