Carbide Processors. "Case Study - Performance of Cermet Cutting Blades vs Carbide Blades in a Slat Cutting Mill". AZoM. https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1820. (accessed November 25, 2024).

I like DannoG's idea. I'd take it one step further, and drill your bridge mounting holes through it. In other words, place your bridge baseplate over the wood, (hardwood like maple) and drill all the holes, not just the string through holes. That way you can use the bridge mounting holes with some longer screws to screw your template to the body, locking it in place. And since you've used the actual baseplate, you should have perfect alignment when you install the bridge. I can't endorse using a router. I have that adjustable depth drill press that kd has pictured, and it's the greatest. If you're going to upgrade your drill press, definitely get one like that rather than one that's just barely big enough for bridge holes.

Milwaukee® 48-89-9212 Step Drill Bit, 7/8 in Dia Min Hole, 1-3/8 in Dia Max Hole, 5 Steps, HSS, 4 Hole Sizes, 3/8 in Shank ; Minimum Hole Diameter: 7/8 in ...

Carbide Processors. "Case Study - Performance of Cermet Cutting Blades vs Carbide Blades in a Slat Cutting Mill". AZoM. 25 November 2024. .

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This is a company manufacturing products where a very large number of slats are required for each item. They were concerned with time spent cutting but they were much more concerned with good cuts every time. The cost of sorting sloppy cuts was huge. The cost of sorting poor cuts was much more important than tooling cost or material cost.

well... If you ABSOLUTELY must use a router for drilling, and I am NOT by any means speaking from experience because I think it is absolutely nuts... harbor freight tools makes a piece that allows you to vary the speed that your router runs. I do not know how slow it will let you go, but it may get you closer to the speed that you will need to successfully accomplish what you need to do...

For tools we buy a lot of Kennametal, Helical, and Walters. Measuring equipment we've always gone with mitutoyo or starrett.

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Carbide Processors. 2018. Case Study - Performance of Cermet Cutting Blades vs Carbide Blades in a Slat Cutting Mill. AZoM, viewed 25 November 2024, https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1820.

After ten weeks the saw was still cutting as fast and as well as ever but one morning it sounded a little louder so they checked it. The scoring saw had hit something. Five teeth were broken but the saw still cut and the cuts were still clean. Both saws were replaced. The main saw had some wear as seen in the picture but, again, the cuts were still very clean.

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Its more tapered, less aggressive, and doesn't "grab" the material as much when it penetrated like a metal/wood bit does. You can tell the ...

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The global semiconductor market has entered an exciting period. Demand for chip technology is both driving the industry as well as hindering it, with current chip shortages predicted to last for some time. Current trends will likely shape the future of the industry, which is set to continue to show

Cermet tipped saws cut 30 slats at a time compared to only 14 for carbide tipped saws. The cuts were also cleaner. The top bundle of 14 slats has a line where the scoring saw cut. The bottom bundle of 30 slats also has a line from the scoring saw but the line is much fainter, which shows the better quality of cut.

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Carbide Processors. (2018, August 16). Case Study - Performance of Cermet Cutting Blades vs Carbide Blades in a Slat Cutting Mill. AZoM. Retrieved on November 25, 2024 from https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1820.

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Steve....I would not recommend using a twist drill bit or any other drill bit in a router unless it was specifically designed for that use. You have to remember, that a router is spinning at up to 20,000rpms....if that steel bit breaks up, you potentially have a very big on your hands.....no pun intended! If you can't drill the holes using a drill press, and you have to have these holes drilled exactly perpendicular....There is an inexpensive attachment to turns a hand drill into a hand held drill press. It bolts or screws onto the collar behind the chuck and has a mechanism similar to a plunge router's. If you have the $$$$$, Buy yourself a bigger drill press......You will find it invaluable in the long run. You can probably pick up a used 14 incher for $150.

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You know when you need to drill holes absolutely vertically. It's fine if they're near the edge of the body beacuse you can use a drill press or similar. The problem I have is when I want to drill holes further to the centre of teh body, and the throat of the drill press doesn't give me enough reach over the workpiece.

As a temporary, cheap alternative to a new drill press, take a block of squared up hardwood, such as maple and drill guide holes of the proper diameter in it with your drill press. Then use it to align your hand drill on the guitar. It is tricky to drill in just the right spot, but if you make carefull measurements it should work well. After you have used the guide a few times it will get sloppy and you can make a new one. for the string through holes you could make a guide that spaces all 6 strings precisely, using the drill press.

The customer was thrilled enough with the test set of ceramic tipped saws to order three more sets for $1,725.00. When he uses ceramic tipped saws he cuts twice as much material in half the time for a 4 to 1 advantage. He gets beautifully clean cuts with no reject material. The saw is quieter; labour is lower and saw changes are dramatically reduced. Ceramic tipped saws cost about twice as much and the customer gets 5 times the value.

So I need to drill the holes for the strings to pass through a solid body fitted with a strat-type hardtail bridge. Would it be possible to use a router as a "movable drill press" with a drill bit (say 1/4) fitted into the collet? I've always heard that using a router for drilling was not recommended, But recently I saw that Trend do a range of drill bits specifically for the router. Do I need to use these only or could I use a regular drill bit? Alternatively could I use a straight router bit of the correct diameter and just plunge straight down to make larger holes (bridge / tailpiece studs, for example)?

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